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This farmer, who used to live in Wang She, was back in his old hood collecting bamboo husks to make zongzi.I pushed back farther down the footpaths into Wang She, off the main trail.Over the May holiday, I wanted to do three things: eat seafood, go hiking and visit an old stone village in the mountains. The popular seafood places we chose in Ningbo were just average and halfway up the mountain to the stone village, the one-lane road became a traffic jam. Off to the left, a guy in the tea field blasted fourth-tier techno from a tent. There’s no visitor center and no parking lot for buses.It seemed like the Chinese vacation was becoming a “Chinese vacation” and it was going to be a shitty crowded day. The stone village, Xujiashan, turned out to be fantastic and uncrowded (no idea where that tour bus went), and the hiking trail that ran out of the village turned out to be just one part of an amazing 500 km network of sign-posted footpaths through the Zhejiang mountains. Thirty minutes on the trail and I knew I’d have to come back, and often. They made a great map, they made an app, and then they got out of the way. At the trailhead I started on, someone had nailed on their homemade “Fresh Honey For Sale! Really, whoever the government officials were that created this system, they need a raise and some recognition. Not many people know about the trail, even though it’s been around for seven years. I chose a 50 km stretch of trail that starts in Dujuanshan (杜鹃山) and comes out in Feng Jia (冯家), mostly because I could download a GPS track online, just in case everything went to shit, and it seemed like a good distance for three days out in the woods.About halfway to Xujiashan, the trail dips back down into the bamboo forest and I come to Wang She (王社), an abandoned village.About 20 years ago, the government moved the families to a more accessible village closer up the road.

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It’s an inauspicious start but I promise it gets better. It’s one of the most popular and interesting sections because there’s a lot to see—both nature and tiny villages; because at about 12k you can do it in four hours (so it’s good for a day hike); and because Xujiashan has some tiny hotels and restaurants, if you don’t want to camp or carry food.

The path goes through a bunch of scenery, from dirt trail to old steps to fire roads like this one.

Sometimes they are just a busted hut on the saddle of a ridge, like this one. What they have done is, as far as tourism in this part of China goes, amazing. In 2011, China officially made May 19, the first date in his journal, the country’s "Tourism Day". The first step is taking the high-speed train to Ninghai county, about 65 km south of Ningbo.

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Ninghai the city doesn’t have much to see but it does have a high-speed train station, and that’s crucial to doing this from Shanghai.

It wasn’t even 2pm and they had already collected 200 pounds.